Category: Whisky Tasting Notes

There is little doubt that single malt Scotch has emerged as one of the leading luxury spirits categories.  It has become so popular that people tend to look down upon blended Scotch.  “I only drink single malt” is a phrase I hear far too often.  These people don’t know what they’re missing, because there are some excellent blends available.

But that is good news for the rest of us.  As more and more money chases a limited supply of whisky, prices go ever higher.  But most of that money is busy chasing single malt (and more recently Bourbon), leaving blended Scotch, and its prices, virtually unaffected.  If you are willing to wander down the aisle, past the Speysides and the Islays, to where the blends live, there are some real bargains to be found. 

One example of this is the relatively new “Smooth” series from John Dewar & Sons, better known as Dewar’s.  This is a series of 8-year-old expressions, in various cask finishes.  Cask finishing is the practice of placing mature whisky into a barrel that previously held something else, typically for 6 – 24 months.  Since some of the previous contents will have soaked into the wood, the whisky tends to pick up some of the flavor from the barrel’s previous contents, making for some interesting and complex offerings.

One great thing about these recent offerings is the price.  They retail in my area for $22-23 each, only a couple dollars more than the ubiquitous Dewar’s White Label.  But are they any good?

I started my tasting with the White Label.  The idea was to have that flavor profile fresh in my mind, so that I could easily identify the flavors in the others that came from the cask finishing.  The primary whisky in the Dewar’s blend is Aberfeldy.  If you have tried both you may have noticed some similarities. 

The color of the White label is pale straw. On the nose, it comes across with strong cereal notes. The palate is slightly creamy, which is surprising for a blend.  The inclusion of grain whisky usually tends to make blended Scotch lighter in body than single malt.  The strong cereal grain notes from the aroma register on the palate as well, along with a hint of honey sweetness.  A touch of smoke appears in the finish, but this does not come across as a peated whisky.  Overall, it is a nice mild sipper and would make a decent introduction to Scotch for the beginner.  It represents a good value for the price point, and there is no surprise that it’s one of the top selling Scotch whiskies in the world.

The first cask finish in this series is the Caribbean Smooth, finished in Caribbean rum barrels.  It was released in October 2019.  Using rum casks to finish whisky is not uncommon.  Balvenie and Glenlivet both have expressions done this way, as does Tullamore DEW from Ireland.

The color on this offering is slightly darker than the white label, approaching gold/amber. On the nose, the first impression is of oak.  The cereal aroma is still there, but more subdued.  There is a faint hint of well-aged rum in the background.  On the palate, the sweetness is more like brown sugar than honey. Towards the middle, some flavors similar to an aged rum are apparent, perhaps a hint of tropical fruit, maybe pineapple.  The body is less creamy than the white label.  That wisp of smoke is still there in the finish, but more subtle.

Next up is the Ilegal Smooth, released in May 2020.  The Ilegal in the name (note the single “l”) is a brand of mezcal.  Dewar’s claims that this is the first whisky finished in Mezcal barrels, and I certainly have not seen one before.  If there is one you are aware of, please let me know.

The color here is very similar to the Caribbean Smooth.  The nose has those cereal aromas once again.  They are stronger than in the Caribbean Smooth, but less pronounced than the White Label.  A strong vegetal aroma comes through, reminding me of Espadin.

For those of you not familiar with Mezcal, a little explanation is in order.  While tequila can only be made from blue agave, Mezcal can be made from any species of agave, each of which has its own distinctive flavor.  Espadin is the most abundant and most widely used varietal.  It is the one used by Ilegal, who provides the barrels used for finishing this Dewar’s expression.  Another big difference between tequila and mezcal is that the agave used to make Mezcal is roasted, rather than steamed, resulting in a smoky flavor.

On the palate, the Espadin notes are rather strong, coming across as vegetal and herbal.  There is also a strong smoke flavor, but not a peat smoke. It is more like the smoke you would find in a very smoky Mezcal.  The mouthfeel is thinner than the others, and the finish is short and smoky. The cask influence is so strong here, it almost feels more like an añejo Mezcal than a Scotch.

The most recent addition to this line is the Portuguese Smooth, which was just released in January 2021.  It is finished in Port casks, which is quite possible the most popular choice for “finishing” whisky.

The color is darker than the others, with that slight but distinctive ruddy hue that can be found in most Port finished whiskies.  The aroma is very typical of a Port cask finished whisky, as is the palate.  Notes of dried fruit and dark berries, with a slight hint of honey sweetness.  The smoke is still present, but less here than in any of the others.

Overall, these new releases build upon the base of the basic Dewar’s expression, and really showcase the cask finishes. All are approachable and sippable. While they may lack the full body of an all-malt whisky, at a price point in the low 20s, compared to $50 + for cask finished single malts, they really are a bargain.  If you are looking to start exploring cask finished whisky on a budget, you can pick up all four of these bottles and get change from a $100 bill.

I try to make it a rule not to taste a new whisky by itself. Having something to compare it with besides a memory is almost always a good idea. When I tried the Glenfiddich Original (based on their 1963 Straight Malt), I had a glass of their current 12 Year along side. When Glenmorangie released their new version of the Quinta Ruban (Port cask finished) with an age statement of 14 years, I compared it to the previous 12 year expression.

When I first tried Ardbeg’s newest release, the Wee Beastie, it was part of an online tasting, alongside some very different whiskies. I’ve now seen several posts about this dram, and several people asking “How does it compare to the 10 Year?” (Ardbeg’s core expression), and I wanted to answer that question.

Sure, I could compare my recent experience with the new release to what I think I remember the 10 Year tasting like the last time I had it. But wouldn’t it be better to do a side-by-side comparison? So I decided to heed my own advice, poured a measure of each, and sat down.

The basics – Ardbeg is a distillery on the island of Islay, off the coast of Scotland. Most people associate Islay with smoky whiskies, and while there are exceptions, Ardbeg is not one of them. They are not at all shy about using peat in their Scotch, and often a lot of it.

The Ardbeg 10 Year is their main offering, and is bottled at 46% ABV. The Wee Beastie bears a 5 year old age statement, and is bottled at 47.4%. Both are non-chill filtered. Some might be a bit put off by such a young age statement, but don’t be. This does not suffer from youth, and does not come across as an immature whisky.

A word about peated Scotch and age – Phenols, the chemical compounds that cause peated whisky to taste smoky, break down over time. Generally speaking, the longer a peated whisky ages, the less intense that peat becomes.

Color – Both are a pale straw color. Suprisingly, the Wee Beastie is slightly darker than the 10 Year.

Nose – Don’t let the pale color lull you into thinking these are weak or bland offerings. On the nose, the Wee Beastie offers big peaty smoke, with hints of tar, and a little coastal salinity, very common with Islay malts. At just under 240 sq. miles, it’s hard to get far from the sea.

With the 10 Year, I find that the salinity is more pronounced. Maybe the extra time has allowed it to absorb more salt from the sea air, or maybe it’s just that there’s less here to mask it. As expected, the smoke is more subdued in the older expression compared to the Beastie. Peat smoke definitely has a terroir, and there’s certainly a hint of the medicinal iodine / seaweed typical of Islay peat to be found here. While the younger offering is unmistakably Islay, I really don’t get that iodine.

Taste – On the palate, the Wee Beastie offers a big hit of smoke up front. The iodine that was lacking from the aroma makes itself known here. The finish is long, with those distinctive Islay flavors building at first, then giving way to a lingering smoke.

The 10 Year is a little less assertive. Up front, you get some maltiness, with the smoke hanging back just enough to let you appreciate the barley that this was made from. The smoke on this builds towards the middle, with that medicinal feel coming closer to the end. As expected, time has mellowed this compared to the younger Beastie.

Adding a few drops of water to the Wee Beastie tones down the phenols, as expected. Malt starts to emerge in the aroma, reminding me of a biscuit that was left too long in the oven. On the palate, the maltiness appears as well. Salinity gets pushed to the back, and I get more smoke than iodine / seaweed. My personal impression is that it starts to resemble a Campbeltown malt in many ways.

Overall, if you like peated whisky, and are looking for big Islay smoke without a big price tag, the Wee Beastie is a bargain waiting to be found.

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Julia Child famously remarked “A party without cake is just a meeting”.

She’s right, you know. Dessert is just dessert, but cake is a celebration. Birthdays, weddings, all the most joyous occasions in out lives are marked with a cake.

It was this idea that inspired Dr. Bill Lumsden to create Glenmorangie’s latest expression, “A Tale of Cake”, released on September 22nd, 2020. In his words “some of my most joyous memories are from eating cake”. In particular, Dr. Bill had thoughts of baking with his grandmother and a pineapple upside down cake that his daughter made for his birthday when he set out to create a whisky reminiscent of cake.

But how does one capture the spirit of cake in a whisky? If you’re Glenmorangie, there’s a good chance that the answer is “cask finishing”. Dr. Bill has been a pioneer and leader in the area of extracting flavor by aging whisky in barrels that have previously held other spirits or wines. This time he turned to Tokaji barrels, those which had been used to age the sweet desert wines of the Tokaj region of Hungary. As usual, he was successful.

I’ve seen a lot of misconception in online comments, more so than with most whiskies. So to set the record straight, this is NOT a flavored whisky. This is a single malt Scotch, so by law, it cannot contain any added colors besides flavor-neutral E150 caramel coloring, and no added flavors. All of the flavors come from fermentation, distillation, and maturation (aging).

This is very limited release. It took some legwork, and a bit of luck to track down a bottle. If you’re a fan of sweeter whiskies, and you come across this, it is worth picking up.

The color in the glass is a dark gold. I got the impression that it had a stronger tint of yellow than most, maybe from the Tokaji casks. It could be my imagination, but I’ve seen a definite red tint in some port cask finished whiskies, so maybe it really is there.

The first impression of the aroma is that it is warm and sweet. That sweetness comes in the form of honey and sugar. Digging a little deeper, you’ll find hints of dried stone fruit, like apricot or peach, and a trace of pineapple. Overall the aroma gives the impression of walking into a cupcake bakery, in the same way that the Allta feels like walking into a bread bakery.

On the palate it is once again sweet. The typical Glenmorangie citrus is present, but takes a back seat to stone fruit. The sweetness takes the form of a sugary frosting or glazed donut. Notes of tropical fruit like pineapple and passionfruit emerge towards the end. The finish is medium, with a lingering warmth and sweetness.

I don’t usually venture into the realm of food pairing, but in this case I couldn’t resist. I didn’t have time to bake, so I set off to the store in search of something appropriate. The original inspiration was a pineapple upside down cake, but I couldn’t find one. I settled on a slice of Louisiana Crunch Cake, and a scoop of Pineapple Coconut Ice Cream. It was a perfect match. I alternated between bites of just cake, just ice cream, or both, and sips of whisky. Every bite improved the next sip, and every sip enhanced the next bite. If you’re doing a whisky dinner, and struggling with the dessert course, pairing the right treat with this latest offering from Glenmorangie is sure to impress.

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Tonight, a friend of mine gifted me a bottle of Horse Soldier Signature Bourbon, from American Freedom Distillery in Ohio. American Freedom produces four expressions, including the Signature.

In October of 2001, shortly after the terrorist attacks of 9/11, a small group of Green Berets were the first American armed forces to enter Afghanistan. These brave men, who fought against a vastly larger force, came to be known as the Horse Soldiers. After leaving the service, several of them founded American Freedom Distillery. One of those men is my friend’s cousin.

Moved by the story, and the gift, I knew this was a bottle that needed to be treated with reverence. I took my time with this whiskey and was sure to offer up the first glass in a toast to these heroes.

The first thing I noticed, before even breaking the seal on the bottle, was an impression of quality and attention to detail. From the weight of the thick-walled glass bottle, to the embossed logo in the glass, the metal label, and the inlaid logo coin in the stopper. The bottles are cast in molds that are made from reclaimed steel from the World Trade Center. This steel was gifted to the owners of the distillery by the New York City Port Authority, as a token of thanks for their service.

Research (done after the tasting, so as not to influence my perceptions) revealed the mash bill to be 70% yellow dent corn, 20% soft red winter wheat and 10% two-row malted barley.

Color – In the bottle, and in the glass, you notice a deep, rich color. It is almost brown in the bottle, and a nice dark caramel in the glass. Since Bourbon is not allowed to contain any coloring, that hue can only come from one place. Age.

Another visual note is that it coats the inside of the glass. It doesn’t run down immediately, or even leave “legs”. It slowly recedes back into the glass in a nice, even sheet, letting you know that some serious viscosity and mouthfeel lie ahead.

Aroma – The first thing I picked up upon nosing this whiskey was vanilla. I also found a gentle sweetness in the form of caramel and burnt toffee, with just a hint of corn sweetness in the background. There is just a light hint of char if you’re looking for it.

Tasting – The sweetness from the aroma, and the viscosity seen in the pour make themselves known immediately. This is bottled at 95 proof (an homage to the founders’ former unit number, team 595), and the heat is not shy, but is never harsh. Notes of oak and vanilla come towards the end of the tasting and into the finish. The finish is drying, yielding to soft tannins, and some leather is starting to develop, again letting you know that this is not a young whiskey.

A little splash of water tones down the heat and allows that leather to come into the aroma a little. The palate becomes a little rounder, and while the sweetness is still there, the oak becomes more apparent. The leather seems to come on a little later but is definitely still there.

Overall impression – As I have said, this is not a young whiskey. It does not contain an age statement (which by law means it is at least 4 years old), but I would be shocked if I learned it was younger than 8 years. It reads like an 8 to 10-year-old Bourbon to me, especially with the deep, rich color, and notes of leather in the aroma and on the palate.

I have tried many craft whiskies, from good to fair to “no thank you”, and the one thing that they all have in common is that they are young. Small businesses need a revenue stream, and so they will produce “baby Bourbon”, aged for a shorter time in smaller barrels. Some will wait the two years to label it as a “Straight Bourbon”, but rarely will you see the required 4 years in the barrel to forego an age statement. To see an offering that is easily twice that old come from a craft distillery is a rare find, and a rare treat.

It was just about a year ago that Glenmorangie released the Allta, the tenth in their Private Edition series. Each of the P.E. releases showcases a unique character, from the Sherry cask finish of the first P.E., Sonnalta, to the rye whiskey cask finish of the 2018 Spios.

While most of the P.E. releases have focused on cask finishes, an area in which Glenmorangie is a pioneer and a leader, the 2015 release “Tusail” used a specific strain of barley. The Allta, released in 2019, used a never before identified strain of yeast found growing on the Cadboll barley in Glenmorangie’s fields.

On March 1st, 2020, Glenmorangie released The Cadboll Estate, a limited edition. Returning to their own back yard once again, The Cadboll Estate is made with Cadboll barley grown in Glenmorangie’s fields. It is aged for 15 years in first fill ex-Bourbon barrels, and bottled at 43% ABV.

Color – The color is somewhere between amber and gold, almost identical to the Original.

Nose – The aroma is very mild. It offers similar notes to the Original, with that distinctive Glenmorangie citrus, and a hint of cereal. Less alcohol than the Original, despite the same ABV – most likely mellowed by the extra 5 years in wood. A few drops of water opens up some subtle floral notes.

Palate – Upon the first sip, it offers up a creamy mouthfeel, without being too thick or cloying. Not as viscous as a Campbeltown, and certainly not oily, but more substantial than a typical Highland.

The flavor of the grain comes through, but in a refined way. Not at all yeasty or “bready”. More like a nice cereal, with malt notes. The expected Glenmorangie citrus is there, but is more of a background note, emerging towards the end.

Finish – The finish is somewhat short. The citrus that emerges near the end lingers into the end, and some sweet nuttiness emerges, like a nut candy or peanut brittle. The overall sensation of creaminess lasts as well.

Overall – A nice whisky, and about what you would expect for the age and price point. If the effort here was to emphasize the character of the grain above all else, and I assume it was, I would say Dr. Lumsden has succeeded once again. There is no question that this is a Glenmorangie expression, but the qualities that define the Original and other expressions take a back seat to the character of the grain.

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