Who you callin’ smooth?

Is it OK to describe a whiskey as “smooth”?

Not too long ago, I saw an article that claimed whiskey should not be referred to as smooth. I gave it a cursory once-over, and dismissed it. “These are the same whiskey snobs who get offended if someone asks for an ice cube”, I thought. Whiskey has become more popular, even trendy. An unfortunate downside of this is that wherever you find a trend, you find elitism.

Whenever something becomes fashionable, there will always be people who acquire some knowledge, some experience, then proclaim themselves to be experts, looking down upon anyone with less knowledge and experience than they have.

At the begining of this month, Glenmorangie released their 15 year old Cadboll Estate. In one post, someone refered to it as smooth. In another post, someone asked a friend if it was smooth. In both cases, the same person called them out, in ALL CAPS no less, for using that word. I remembered the article that I mentioned earlier, and I was intrigued.

What is it about this word that suddenly has people so triggered? Surely, I thought, we’ve all refered to a whiskey as smooth. There are certainly enough products that aren’t smooth to make it a valid comparison. I had to investigate.

The arguments against the term go like this:
⦁ It’s what college students use to describe anything that isn’t the bottom shelf garbage they’re used to drinking.
⦁ It’s too vague. There are several factors that make a whiskey (or other spirit) smooth. Learn them and use more precise language to describe what you’re drinking.
⦁ Sweetness can make something seem more smooth. A wheated Bourbon may seem smooth, while the spicy flavor of a high rye bourbon may “burn”. Taking advantage of this “sweeter is smoother” perception, some lower end products may add sweeteners to make their product more drinkable.
⦁ Something that is distilled to a higher proof may seem more smooth, since it has fewer congeners (byproducts of distillation that can add different flavors to the new make spirit), but it will have less flavor.
⦁ Conversely, something that is bottled at a lower proof will have less alcohol burn (usually described as “heat”), and will seem smoother.
⦁ Smooth does not mean good. Flavor and character are more important than something that “goes down easy”.

All of these arguments point to one thing. For those against it, using that word speaks to a lack of experience. Like the college student, maybe you’re only used to drinking low quality whiskey. Or maybe you lack the knowledge to describe what’s in your glass with more specific terms.

Indeed, I found several sources that advised against using the word in discussing whiskey. Use it, they say, and you will identify yourself as a novice. Utter that word in the wrong company, and you will be judged harshly by those in the know.

To all of this I say “so what?” Is being inexperienced really so awful? Every professional, every expert, everyone, was a newcomer at one point.

If I meet someone with more experience than me, I want to learn from them. That’s not going to happen if I try to trick them into thinking I know more than I do. I’ve proudly started more than one conversation with “I’m new to this, but I want to learn more”.

And if I meet someone with less experience, I want to teach them. I want to pass on what I’ve learned. I’m not going to look down on someone or dismiss them because they’re just starting out. I was there once, too. Welcome. Let me help you find your way. I hope you enjoy this as much as I do. Knowledge, like whiskey, is best when shared.

So go ahead and describe that brown liquid in your glass as smooth. I won’t judge you. And if anyone does, look them in the eye and say “I’d rather be a novice than a snob”.

St. Patrick’s Day – part II

Once again, St. Patrick’s Day is right around the corner.

Once again, thoughts turn to Irish whiskey.

Last year I suggested reaching past the ever popular Jameson or Bushmills, and trying something new. I took my own advice, and have tried almost 20 new Irish whiskey expressions in the past year. Here are a few favorites:

Writer’s Tears – This fairly new release is my new “go to” Irish whiskey. A mix of pot still and single malt whiskeys, it is light, sweet, and very approachable, a perfect example of everything an Irish whiskey should be. And the name is sure to start a conversation, or at least get a laugh or two.

Slane Triple Cask – Aged in three different types of barrels, this one has more oak notes than you would typically find in a Irish whiskey, and is an excellent choice if you’re a fan of the flavor of wood.

Jameson Black Barrel – Similar to the classic Jameson, but with a higher percentage of pot still whiskey in the blend, lending it a little more body. This expression also relies on special barrel selection, including re-charred bourbon barrels. Nice hints of oak, and some interesting bourbon flavors, along with a pleasant bit of char.

Sexton Single Malt – Another selection that places a lot of emphasis on barrel notes, with this one favoring char over oak. Think of Slane, Jameson, and Sexton as a continuum of barrel notes from oak (Slane) to char (Sexton), with Black Barrel somewhere in the middle. All three are good choices if you’re trying to win over a Bourbon drinker.

Connemara Peated – I mentioned this one last year, but it’s worth repeating. If the previous three choices helped you convert your Bourbon drinking friends, this one is for that Scotch drinker in your circle. One of the few peated selections from the Emerald Isle, this one is on the mild side, not a big smoke monster. It compares favorably to a lightly peated highland malt.

Lambay Cognac Cask – Another fairly new offering, this one is finished in casks that previously held French Cognac, and picks up some nice sweet notes from the barrels’ former contents. Compare this to the also recently released Glenlivet 14 year, or the Bastille 1789 from France.

Do you have a favorite Irish Whiskey, or a new selection you’ve tried recently? Let me know in the comments. And if you enjoyed reading this, please consider following this blog.

Sláinte mhaith! (To your good health)

Glenmorangie – The Cadboll Estate

It was just about a year ago that Glenmorangie released the Allta, the tenth in their Private Edition series. Each of the P.E. releases showcases a unique character, from the Sherry cask finish of the first P.E., Sonnalta, to the rye whiskey cask finish of the 2018 Spios.

While most of the P.E. releases have focused on cask finishes, an area in which Glenmorangie is a pioneer and a leader, the 2015 release “Tusail” used a specific strain of barley. The Allta, released in 2019, used a never before identified strain of yeast found growing on the Cadboll barley in Glenmorangie’s fields.

On March 1st, 2020, Glenmorangie released The Cadboll Estate, a limited edition. Returning to their own back yard once again, The Cadboll Estate is made with Cadboll barley grown in Glenmorangie’s fields. It is aged for 15 years in first fill ex-Bourbon barrels, and bottled at 43% ABV.

Color – The color is somewhere between amber and gold, almost identical to the Original.

Nose – The aroma is very mild. It offers similar notes to the Original, with that distinctive Glenmorangie citrus, and a hint of cereal. Less alcohol than the Original, despite the same ABV – most likely mellowed by the extra 5 years in wood. A few drops of water opens up some subtle floral notes.

Palate – Upon the first sip, it offers up a creamy mouthfeel, without being too thick or cloying. Not as viscous as a Campbeltown, and certainly not oily, but more substantial than a typical Highland.

The flavor of the grain comes through, but in a refined way. Not at all yeasty or “bready”. More like a nice cereal, with malt notes. The expected Glenmorangie citrus is there, but is more of a background note, emerging towards the end.

Finish – The finish is somewhat short. The citrus that emerges near the end lingers into the end, and some sweet nuttiness emerges, like a nut candy or peanut brittle. The overall sensation of creaminess lasts as well.

Overall – A nice whisky, and about what you would expect for the age and price point. If the effort here was to emphasize the character of the grain above all else, and I assume it was, I would say Dr. Lumsden has succeeded once again. There is no question that this is a Glenmorangie expression, but the qualities that define the Original and other expressions take a back seat to the character of the grain.

If you enjoyed this post, and want to see more like it, please consider subscribing.