It was just about a year ago that Glenmorangie released the Allta, the tenth in their Private Edition series. Each of the P.E. releases showcases a unique character, from the Sherry cask finish of the first P.E., Sonnalta, to the rye whiskey cask finish of the 2018 Spios.
While most of the P.E. releases have focused on cask finishes, an area in which Glenmorangie is a pioneer and a leader, the 2015 release “Tusail” used a specific strain of barley. The Allta, released in 2019, used a never before identified strain of yeast found growing on the Cadboll barley in Glenmorangie’s fields.
On March 1st, 2020, Glenmorangie released The Cadboll Estate, a limited edition. Returning to their own back yard once again, The Cadboll Estate is made with Cadboll barley grown in Glenmorangie’s fields. It is aged for 15 years in first fill ex-Bourbon barrels, and bottled at 43% ABV.
Color – The color is somewhere between amber and gold, almost identical to the Original.
Nose – The aroma is very mild. It offers similar notes to the Original, with that distinctive Glenmorangie citrus, and a hint of cereal. Less alcohol than the Original, despite the same ABV – most likely mellowed by the extra 5 years in wood. A few drops of water opens up some subtle floral notes.
Palate – Upon the first sip, it offers up a creamy mouthfeel, without being too thick or cloying. Not as viscous as a Campbeltown, and certainly not oily, but more substantial than a typical Highland.
The flavor of the grain comes through, but in a refined way. Not at all yeasty or “bready”. More like a nice cereal, with malt notes. The expected Glenmorangie citrus is there, but is more of a background note, emerging towards the end.
Finish – The finish is somewhat short. The citrus that emerges near the end lingers into the end, and some sweet nuttiness emerges, like a nut candy or peanut brittle. The overall sensation of creaminess lasts as well.
Overall – A nice whisky, and about what you would expect for the age and price point. If the effort here was to emphasize the character of the grain above all else, and I assume it was, I would say Dr. Lumsden has succeeded once again. There is no question that this is a Glenmorangie expression, but the qualities that define the Original and other expressions take a back seat to the character of the grain.
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