Author: Jim

Glenmorangie – The Cadboll Estate

It was just about a year ago that Glenmorangie released the Allta, the tenth in their Private Edition series. Each of the P.E. releases showcases a unique character, from the Sherry cask finish of the first P.E., Sonnalta, to the rye whiskey cask finish of the 2018 Spios.

While most of the P.E. releases have focused on cask finishes, an area in which Glenmorangie is a pioneer and a leader, the 2015 release “Tusail” used a specific strain of barley. The Allta, released in 2019, used a never before identified strain of yeast found growing on the Cadboll barley in Glenmorangie’s fields.

On March 1st, 2020, Glenmorangie released The Cadboll Estate, a limited edition. Returning to their own back yard once again, The Cadboll Estate is made with Cadboll barley grown in Glenmorangie’s fields. It is aged for 15 years in first fill ex-Bourbon barrels, and bottled at 43% ABV.

Color – The color is somewhere between amber and gold, almost identical to the Original.

Nose – The aroma is very mild. It offers similar notes to the Original, with that distinctive Glenmorangie citrus, and a hint of cereal. Less alcohol than the Original, despite the same ABV – most likely mellowed by the extra 5 years in wood. A few drops of water opens up some subtle floral notes.

Palate – Upon the first sip, it offers up a creamy mouthfeel, without being too thick or cloying. Not as viscous as a Campbeltown, and certainly not oily, but more substantial than a typical Highland.

The flavor of the grain comes through, but in a refined way. Not at all yeasty or “bready”. More like a nice cereal, with malt notes. The expected Glenmorangie citrus is there, but is more of a background note, emerging towards the end.

Finish – The finish is somewhat short. The citrus that emerges near the end lingers into the end, and some sweet nuttiness emerges, like a nut candy or peanut brittle. The overall sensation of creaminess lasts as well.

Overall – A nice whisky, and about what you would expect for the age and price point. If the effort here was to emphasize the character of the grain above all else, and I assume it was, I would say Dr. Lumsden has succeeded once again. There is no question that this is a Glenmorangie expression, but the qualities that define the Original and other expressions take a back seat to the character of the grain.

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Smoke Gets In Your… Glass

Discussing the difference between various types of peat smoke, wood smoke, and barrel char.

Ask most people to describe Scotch, and one word you’re like to hear is “smoke”.  I’ve encountered several misconceptions about this.  The most common one is that all Scotch is smoky.  While this may have been true in the distant past, it certainly isn’t the case today.  Others have to do with where that flavor comes from.  Let’s start there. 

The smoky flavor in Scotch typically comes from “peated” malt.  This is malted barley that has been dried over a fire of burning peat moss, which is basically decomposed vegetation.  Perhaps I’ll talk more about malting and peating in a future post.

As you sample more and more peated Scotch, you will notice something.  Not all peat is created equal.  Certainly there is a large range in terms of the intensity of the smoke, but there is also a difference in the flavor of the smoke.

Some Islay whiskies are described as having flavors of iodine, or seaweed, or that are medicinal.  Peated Scotch from the Highlands or Speyside has a lighter, milder smoke.  This is mostly because the vegetation in the area (which decomposes to make the peat) is different.  While seaweed and other coastal plants make up most of the peat on Islay, the flora in the highlands consists largely of heather and other lighter, floral vegetation.  It’s also important to note that where the whisky comes from is not always the same as where the peat comes from.  Some Islay distilleries source their peated barley from the mainland.

If you begin to explore these differences in peat smoke in more detail, it’s worth seeking out samples from beyond the borders of Scotland.  Several craft distilleries in the U.S. have also started producing peated whiskeys, but be careful here.  Some import malted barley from Scotland, so you will not be tasting American peat. 

On a visit to Orange County Distillery in New York, I sampled their peated single malt.  They are located in the heart of the Black Dirt Region (the “black dirt” being peat), and they harvest their own peat and barley, and do the malting and peating on premise.  While the flavor is very similar to a peated highland Scotch, it is distinctly regional.

Connemara makes a peated Irish whiskey.  The peat here is also mild, like a highland.  There is some ambiguity about the source of the peat, but I find the flavor to be unique. 

But smoke flavor in whiskey does not end there.  There are whiskeys that are made with grains that have been smoked over a wood fire.  Wood smoke is a very different flavor than peat smoke, and one that more people are familiar with, as most of us have tasted food cooked over a wood fire.  I have tried several whiskeys that contain a portion of wood smoked grain, and they can be quite good.

And then there is “barrel char”.  It is a legal requirement that Bourbon be aged in a new charred oak container.  Other whiskeys may also use charred barrels, though some are simply “toasted”.  The degree of char is rated on a numeric scale, with 1 being the least charred.  A char of 4 is the highest that is commonly used, though higher levels do exist.  Whiskey aged in a #4 barrel, and sometimes even in a #3, will usually have a charred flavor.  While some might describe this as smoky, it is a distinct flavor, more similar to charcoal.

So remember, not all Scotch is smoky, and not all smoky whisky is Scotch.  There is a wide range of smoke, both in intensity, and in flavor.  If you like smoke, don’t be afraid to explore different types.  If you don’t like smoky whisky, maybe you just haven’t tried the right kind of smoke yet.  And if you don’t like smoke at all, don’t let that stop you from trying some unpeated Scotch whiskies.

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The year of 100 whiskeys (plus a few more)

Hello, and happy New Year!  I apologize for my long absence.  I hope that this year will allow me to be more consistent in my posting.

Every January, I attend a Robbie Burns Day dinner and Scotch tasting.  If you’re not familiar with this, Robert Burns was a Scottish poet born on January 25th, 1759.  There is a tradition of celebrating his life and poetry with a dinner, usually held on that date, or a Friday or Saturday near it.  Traditional Scottish food is typically served, along with Scotch whisky. 

As luck would have it, his birthday falls on a Saturday this year.  If you’ve never attended one of these dinners, I encourage you to look for one near you.  They are a lot of fun – a chance to meet some great people, and try some good food and good whisky – even if you don’t like haggis.

In February of last year, I attended a tasting event at a local distillery comparing and contrasting various whiskey styles, including Bourbon, rye, and single malt, where we sampled 10 different expressions.  By the end of February, it occurred to me that I had tried over 30 whiskeys that I had never had before.  With that number under my belt, and the year only 1/6th over, I set a goal of tasting 100 new whiskeys by year’s end.  I was certainly on pace to do that, but could I maintain it?

What followed was an exercise in seeking out new sources for different whiskeys, beyond what you see in every bar, in every liquor store.  I found several restaurants in my area whose bars had whiskey lists ranging from above average to extraordinary.  If I was going somewhere new, I would look ahead and see if there were any promising options in the area. 

I visited local craft distilleries that made whiskey.  I began looking closely at the miniature “airline” bottles in liquor stores, in case they had something new to me, and I could check off another box while spending just a few dollars.  I went to more tasting events.

I made it a point to look for the one option on a whiskey menu that I hadn’t tried before.  It got harder and harder as the year went on.  (At this point, I must offer a word of thanks to every bartender and waiter who endured my more-specific-than-usual questions.) 

I tried some things that I wouldn’t think of as a dram to be sipped neat, but it wasn’t just to add another tally.  I had a genuine interest in being familiar with these, in case they come up as an answer to the “what do you usually drink?” question.  I was pleasantly surprised by several of them.

While I have always been more of a Scotch and Bourbon drinker, I expanded my knowledge of Irish and Canadian whiskeys.  I tried examples from countries that are less well-known for their whiskey, including France, Wales, and South Africa.

I reached my goal of 100 at the end of July with a very special sample, Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year.  I slowed down, but didn’t stop.  After a tasting event in October, I reached 130, and thought I might be able to get to 150 by the end of the year.  On New Year’s Eve, I sampled whiskey number 160, Jameson’s 12 Year Old.

It’s been quite a ride.  I met some great people.  I drank some great whiskey.  I learned a lot.  Mostly, I learned that I still have a lot to learn. 

Why am I telling you all of this?  It’s not because I expect to try over 100 new whiskeys in 2020.  I certainly plan to continue to seek out new experiences, but I also plan to go back to ordering old favorites more often.  And it’s not because I expect you to try 100 new whiskeys this year.  But I do hope that I can encourage you to try something new if you have the chance.  You just might find a new favorite.

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To Infinity and bey…

I better not finish that. It might be considered copyright infringement.

If you’ve gone beyond having one or two favorite bottles, and started building a collection, you might want to consider starting and “Infinity Bottle”.

If you’re not familiar with the idea, you will need an empty bottle to start, or better yet, a nice decanter. The idea is that every time you open a new bottle, you add a small amount, creating your own unique blend, not available anywhere else in the world.

This is not an exercise in immediate gratification. At first, you will only be adding. Once it is full, then every time you add, you will need to take a little out to make room. As you make each “withdrawal”, you get to sample it, and watch your bottle change and evolve with each new addition. It is called an “infinity” bottle because in theory, there will always be some minute influence of every sample added.

One of the great things about this exercise is that there are no rules. But there are some guidelines, and some decisions to make:

  • Will you use one specific type of whisky, or mix different types? While some enjoy the complex liquor produced by blending Scotch, Bourbon, and other types, others are “purists” maintaining an infinity of only their favorite type, or a separate one for each type. Also, don’t be afraid to start an infinity for other favorite spirits. Ginfinity, anyone?
  • Avoid particularly strong flavors. A little bit of a dominant flavor, such as an especially peaty Scotch, will quickly take over an entire bottle. While a lightly peated style like Bowmore is probably OK, you might want to omit the Laphroaig. Another option, if you are a big enough fan of those, is to set up a separate bottle just for them.
  • How much of each sample will you add? One ounce is probably typical. If you want to get off to a faster start, 1 1/2 or 2 ounces might not be out of the question. My suggestion is to keep the amount consistent. We are not looking to become master blenders here.
  • I’ve seen articles that call for adding the final ounce from each bottle. I think that’s like someone asking for your last french fry. Seriously? I’ve been eating these things for 20 minutes, and now you decide you want one? Like the last fry, or the last bite of cake, nothing is as special as that last pour from a bottle. I prefer to make my donations up front.
  • Sample first. While I prefer not to contribute the final ounce to the cause, I don’t like to use the first ounce either. When I open a new bottle, I like to pour a dram and sample it. That way, if I do find one that I just don’t care for, I can omit it. It’s the second ounce that goes in.
  • Last, but not least, share! Although the rule is to only draw out as much as you’re going to replenish from a new bottle, don’t be afraid to take a little extra to pour for an honored guest, especially if you’re proud of your current blend. It will be replenished soon enough, and I think a special guest deserves a special pour. Whether it’s that rare bottle you found, one with a special story behind it, or yes, your very own personal infinity that isn’t available anywhere else, nothing makes me feel more welcome than a fellow enthusiast greeting me with “you have to try this!”

Have an infinity of your own? Thinking of starting one? I’d love to hear about it. And if you would like to receive notification of future posts, please consider subscribing.

Call Me Old Fashioned

The Old Fashioned is one of the most “interpreted” cocktails out there.

Muddled fruit or no? Sparkling water or club soda to top it off, or no? Various flavors, ingredients, and techniques can be found in an Old Fashioned, depending on where you order it. In 49 states, it is a whiskey drink. In Wisconsin, where it is the unofficial state cocktail, it is made with brandy.

So what is a true Old Fashioned?

To answer this question, we have to go back over 200 years. While the term “cocktail” today, refers to any mixed drink, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, a “cock-tail” was a specific category of drink, like a flip, a fizz, or a sour.

In the May 13th, 1806 edition of “The Balance and Columbian Repository”, the following definition appeared: “Cocktail is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters.”

At the time, various bitters were being sold as health tonics, touting the health benefits that made them up. They were rather unpleasant to drink straight, being, as the name implied, bitter in flavor. Mixing them with hard liquor, and a little sweetener, made it easier to take one’s daily dose of the stuff. Many people started each day off with a cock-tail, for medicinal purposes.

Around the middle of the 19th century, Vermouths, Absinthes and various liqueurs began to arrive from Europe, and become more readily available. Bartenders began to add these ingredients to make an “enhanced cocktail”. Each saloon had its own variation, in an attempt to stand out from the crowd.

Many people fought back against this trend, stating clearly and firmly, “I just want a plain, old-fashioned, cocktail.” Soon, that was shortened to “I want an Old Fashioned”, and a name was born.

During prohibition, a lot of “mixology” knowledge was lost, and after repeal, the trend at “modifying” or “enhancing” began again… this time, with muddled fruit among other things. One theory is that the muddled fruit was added during prohibition to help mask the taste of the inferior whiskey available at that time.

So what is a true “Old Fashioned”? In my opinion, I refer back to the original 1806 definition – spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters. So the folks in Wisconsin are not wrong. An Old Fashioned can be made with whiskey, brandy, rum, gin, any spirit you like, though whiskey is the accepted standard.

Flavors can be adjusted by selecting different bitters. There are dozens on the market today, as compared to the dusty old bottle of Angostura found behind most bars 20 years ago, which no one knew what to do with.

I would also offer that “sugar” is open to interpretation, and different sweeteners can be used. Brown or demerara sugar are certainly reasonable choices that add depth of flavor. How about honey or maple syrup? You can even match the sweetener to the base spirit. How about a rum Old Fashioned with molasses? Tequila or Mezcal with agave syrup?

When a drink stops being a true Old Fashioned, again in my opinion, is when you start adding “modifiers”. Additional modifier spirits, liqueurs, etc., disqualify a drink from being a proper Old Fashioned. The Sazerac, while one of my favorite drinks, is technically not an Old Fashioned, due to the Absinthe rinse.

While I’m not a fan of muddled fruit in this drink, there’s certainly a strong historical argument for it. For decades, any published recipe included it, and there are still many places that serve this version of the drink. I generally refer to this style as a “Prohibition Era Old Fashioned” to distinguish it from the original, but there are many who would disagree with me.

Have an opinion? I’d love to hear it in the comments. And if you enjoyed reading this, please consider subscribing.

Sourland Mountain Spirits

Sourland Mountain Spirits opens new Distillery Store and Tasting Room

Sourland Mountain Spirits – Original distillery and new Distillery Store and Tasting Room

This past weekend, Sourland Mountain Spirits (located on Rt. 518 in Hopewell, NJ) opened their new Distillery Store and Tasting Room. I was able to attend their open house on May 19th, and to stop by again this weekend during their first week of regular operating hours. The tasting room is a welcome addition to one of the best distilleries in the area. It is literally an addition – new construction adjacent to the barn that has housed the distillery since operations began.

My first visit to Sourland Mountain Spirits was on March 18th, 2017, the second weekend that they were open. At the time, they had a vodka and a gin (both were excellent) available, and a rum in the works.

Their current product line includes those three flagship products, accompanied by a barrel aged gin, a spiced rum, and an apple brandy, distilled from locally sourced apple cider. All of their products are outstanding, and all are made with locally sourced ingredients wherever possible.  This is in keeping with founder Ray Disch’s mission to be part of the community.

Current product line on display and available for sale in the Distillery Store and Tasting Room

They are preparing to bottle their second batch of Bourbon. Batch #1 was outstanding, and sold out quickly; batch #2 is even better. I was able to taste both before they were released. I have a bottle of #1 in my collection, and am looking forward to adding a bottle of #2 when it is available.

The distillery, Troon Brewing, and Brick Farm Tavern, a farm to table restaurant, are all located on Double Brook Farm, at the foot of the Sourland Mountain Preserve. All share a common vision of being part of the community, and eating and drinking locally.

Prior to the tasting room, tours were given on Saturdays only. Tastings were conducted at the bar of the Brick Farm Tavern, located steps away on the same property. Tours are now available on Saturdays and Sundays from 12:00 PM – 4:00 PM, on the hour. They can be booked ahead at https://www.sourlandspirits.com/visit

The Distillery Store and Tasting Room is open Thursday and Friday from 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM, and Saturday and Sunday from 12:00 PM to 6:00 PM. Tastings are available, as well as cocktails, bottle sales, and merchandise.

Community Room above the Distillery Store and Tasting Room

Upstairs from the newly constructed tasting room, with a separate entrance, is a community room. It is available free of charge to qualified non-profits (reservation required).  This is another part of founder Ray Disch’s mission to be part of, and give back to, the community. It is also available to businesses or private events for a fee.  The room can be booked by contacting the distillery.

If you’re looking to have an enjoyable afternoon, sip a cocktail or two, purchase some quality, small-batch local spirits, and support the community, stop by Sourland Mountain Spirits.

Does Time Really Matter?

A side by side comparison of the former Quinta Ruban 12 YO and the newly released Quinta Ruban 14 YO

Side by side tasting of the Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban 12 YO and Quinta Ruban 14 YO

On May 10th, I saw a social media post from Glenmorangie revealing some new labeling, and one more significant change. Their Quinta Ruban expression was changing from a 12 year to a 14 year.

For those of you not familiar with Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban, it is part of their core product line. Originally released as a NAS (Non Age Statement) whisky, it was changed to a 12 year old in 2010, which is how I first encountered it.

Primarily aged in ex-Bourbon casks, it is finished for an average of 2 years in casks that formerly held Port wine. The name Quinta Ruban is a nod to two cultures – The Portuguese “Quinta”, the estates where wine grapes are grown, and the Gaelic “Ruban”, meaning Ruby.

My immediate thought was that this transition period offered a unique opportunity to look at a question frequently encountered in both the whisky and Port communities – Is older really better? The best way to explore that was with a side by side tasting.

Availability will depend on how much inventory is already in the supply chain, and how quickly it turns over. If you don’t already have the 12, you may want to pick up a bottle while it is still out there, or wait for the 14 to hit the shelves.

I already had a bottle of Quinta Ruban 12, so I set out to find the newly released 14 year old. Luckily, it was only a couple of weeks before a couple of stores in my area turned over their existing stock of 12, and had this new release on the shelf.

Properly stocked with both bottles, I sat down to sample them side by side, and compare.

Color – The first thing that I noticed, way back when I first tried the 12 year old, is that it has a slightly reddish tint from the port casks. In the bottle, the 14 is a little lighter, and less red, but you need the volume in the bottle to notice it. In the glass, the difference is imperceptible.

Aroma – They are very similar here. Both are warm, with notes of dried fruit, like raisins, and chocolate, similar to a fine port. Hints of the signature Glenmorangie citrus are also present. The 12 shows a little more heat, even though they are both bottled at 46% ABV. The lower heat in the aroma of the 14 allows some of the more subtle notes to emerge.

Palate – The 12 year old starts out almost like a rich, well-aged tawny Port. It took me half a second to remember that I was drinking a whisky. Dark fruit is prominent up front. Malt and wood notes emerge in the middle, reminding you gently that this is a whisky, and not a Port wine. The finish is long and slightly dry, with a little bit of heat.

On the palate, the 14 starts out lighter and sweeter. The fruit is more bright than dark, with the notes of a nice Highland whisky featuring more prominently. The cask finish expresses itself more subtly. I can’t help but think that even though both spend an average of 2 years in port casks, the fact that the time in the finishing casks is a smaller portion of the overall age on the 14 makes those notes less dominant. At least, that’s the best explanation I can come up with.

The heat that came across on the palate and in the finish of the 12, while not overpowering, is even more subdued in the 14. The extra two years have definitely allowed the whisky to mellow even further.

If you want a bolder whisky that more prominently features the influence of the finishing cask, pick up a bottle of the 12 while it is still available. If you prefer a more subtle, mellower whisky, the 14 should be hitting shelves near you soon, as supplies of the 12 dwindle.

In either case, you can’t go wrong, as both are outstanding whiskies. Then again, it’s hard to go wrong with any expression from the 16 Men of Tain.

Summertime Drams

What is your favorite dram after a day at the beach?

Oban Little Bay – My favorite malt after a day at the beach

As summertime approaches, and brings warm weather with it, people head to the seaside. But what is the perfect whisky to enjoy after a day at the ocean shore?

Something with a little coastal salinity seems to be in order. The light saltiness matches perfectly with the ocean air. The problem is that most of the whiskies from Islay and the other islands, the ones with that hint of brine, often carry quite a bit of peat. Those smokier whiskies seem better suited to a cool autumn evening around a campfire, or a cold winter day in front of the hearth.

That’s why the Oban Little Bay is my perfect summertime malt. Just the right amount of salinity to pair perfectly with the sea air in which it was matured, but without the usual peat smoke that comes along with that salt. 

Light enough to enjoy on a warm summer day, with hints of apple, citrus, and cinnamon, this one is perfect to sip on the porch after a long day at the beach, before heading out to dinner.

What is your favorite summertime dram? Let me know in the comments. And if you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to see more like it.

Campbeltown

Campbeltown – Scotland’s forgotten whisky region.

Scotland’s forgotten whisky region

Ask many Scotch drinkers how many whisky regions there are in Scotland, and the will proudly say “Four! Speyside, Islay, Highlands and Lowlands.” They will be wrong. So was I, for many years. When I first encountered a Campbeltown single malt over a decade ago, I simply assumed it was a sub-region, or a marketing thing. It wasn’t until recently that I learned Campbeltown is the fifth officially designated whisky region in Scotland.

Campbeltown is a small town on the Kintyre peninsula in the southwest of Scotland. It is not far from Glasgow and the island of Islay, and the closest point to Ireland. So close to Ireland that lengend holds St. Patrick introduced the art of distilling to Scotland in that region during the 5th century.

At one time, Campbeltown (named for Archibald Cambell, 9th Earl of Argyle), was home to over 30 distilleries. In the Victorian age at the end of the 19th century, it was known as the whisky capital of the world.

Two world wars and a Great Depression later, and by the end of the 20th century, only two active distilleries remained – Glen Scotia and Springbank. In addition to their namesake whisky, Springbank also produces the heavily peated Longrow and the unpeated Hazelburn.

These were joined in 2004 when the former Glengyle distillery began production again after having been shuttered in 1925. With the name Glengyle now owned by Loch Lomond, the former Glengyle distillery is now producing whisky under the name Kilkerran, from Campbeltown’s original name, Kinlochkilkerran.

In general, Cambeltown whiskeys are known for being full-bodied, with a viscous, almost oily mouthfeel, and a coastal salinity due to the location on the Kintyre peninsula, and proximity to the sea. Here we look at the entry level expressions from each of these three distilleries.

First up, the Glen Scotia Double Cask. This is a non-age statement (NAS) whisky. Not surprisingly, the “double cask” refers to ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, the two most common types used for aging Scotch. All three expressions here combine bourbon and sherry cask influences.

This whisky is a deep gold in color, a little darker than actual gold. The nose brings expected sherry notes, but less dry than a sherried Speyside, with a touch of honey sweetness, a little biscuit-like cereal, and a hint of coastal salinity. The palate starts out sweet with a touch of the expected salinity, but gives way to drier notes, fading to almost slightly bitter in the finish. A few drops of water tone down the bitter notes at the end.

Springbank 10 is probably the most well known and widely available Campbeltown, at least in my area in the eastern U.S. The color is a medium gold, almost an exact match to the metal of that name. The nose starts off with toasted wood, followed by sherry notes. The expected salinity is lacking. The palate begins with a toffee sweetness, fading to drier sherry notes. The salinity that was lacking on the nose comes through in the taste. The mouthfeel is medium and slightly oily.

Last up is the Kilkerran 12. After resuming production in 2004, this 12 year old expression was first available just a few short years ago, in 2016. The color is a little lighter than gold, but darker than straw. The nose is warm, with wood dominating, and a hint of salinity that you might miss if you’re not looking for it. On the palate, it is the thickest and oiliest of the lot. It starts out drier than the others, with the typical flavors of a sherried Speyside, but a touch of coastal salinity and some peat quickly remind you that it is not one of those.

You may have noticed that each of these selections is bottled at 46% ABV. This is a common strength for single malt Scotch, as it is the proof at which non-chill filtered whiskies will not become cloudy when chilled.

Overall, each of these drams is representative of what the “typical” Campbeltown malt is expected to be, but each showcases different aspects to different degrees. If your whisky explorations haven’t taken you to the Kintyre peninsula yet, you may want to add it to your tasting destinations.

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