There is little doubt that single malt Scotch has emerged as one of the leading luxury spirits categories. It has become so popular that people tend to look down upon blended Scotch. “I only drink single malt” is a phrase I hear far too often. These people don’t know what they’re missing, because there are some excellent blends available.
But that is good news for the rest of us. As more and more money chases a limited supply of whisky, prices go ever higher. But most of that money is busy chasing single malt (and more recently Bourbon), leaving blended Scotch, and its prices, virtually unaffected. If you are willing to wander down the aisle, past the Speysides and the Islays, to where the blends live, there are some real bargains to be found.
One example of this is the relatively new “Smooth” series from John Dewar & Sons, better known as Dewar’s. This is a series of 8-year-old expressions, in various cask finishes. Cask finishing is the practice of placing mature whisky into a barrel that previously held something else, typically for 6 – 24 months. Since some of the previous contents will have soaked into the wood, the whisky tends to pick up some of the flavor from the barrel’s previous contents, making for some interesting and complex offerings.
One great thing about these recent offerings is the price. They retail in my area for $22-23 each, only a couple dollars more than the ubiquitous Dewar’s White Label. But are they any good?
I started my tasting with the White Label. The idea was to have that flavor profile fresh in my mind, so that I could easily identify the flavors in the others that came from the cask finishing. The primary whisky in the Dewar’s blend is Aberfeldy. If you have tried both you may have noticed some similarities.
The color of the White label is pale straw. On the nose, it comes across with strong cereal notes. The palate is slightly creamy, which is surprising for a blend. The inclusion of grain whisky usually tends to make blended Scotch lighter in body than single malt. The strong cereal grain notes from the aroma register on the palate as well, along with a hint of honey sweetness. A touch of smoke appears in the finish, but this does not come across as a peated whisky. Overall, it is a nice mild sipper and would make a decent introduction to Scotch for the beginner. It represents a good value for the price point, and there is no surprise that it’s one of the top selling Scotch whiskies in the world.
The first cask finish in this series is the Caribbean Smooth, finished in Caribbean rum barrels. It was released in October 2019. Using rum casks to finish whisky is not uncommon. Balvenie and Glenlivet both have expressions done this way, as does Tullamore DEW from Ireland.
The color on this offering is slightly darker than the white label, approaching gold/amber. On the nose, the first impression is of oak. The cereal aroma is still there, but more subdued. There is a faint hint of well-aged rum in the background. On the palate, the sweetness is more like brown sugar than honey. Towards the middle, some flavors similar to an aged rum are apparent, perhaps a hint of tropical fruit, maybe pineapple. The body is less creamy than the white label. That wisp of smoke is still there in the finish, but more subtle.
Next up is the Ilegal Smooth, released in May 2020. The Ilegal in the name (note the single “l”) is a brand of mezcal. Dewar’s claims that this is the first whisky finished in Mezcal barrels, and I certainly have not seen one before. If there is one you are aware of, please let me know.
The color here is very similar to the Caribbean Smooth. The nose has those cereal aromas once again. They are stronger than in the Caribbean Smooth, but less pronounced than the White Label. A strong vegetal aroma comes through, reminding me of Espadin.
For those of you not familiar with Mezcal, a little explanation is in order. While tequila can only be made from blue agave, Mezcal can be made from any species of agave, each of which has its own distinctive flavor. Espadin is the most abundant and most widely used varietal. It is the one used by Ilegal, who provides the barrels used for finishing this Dewar’s expression. Another big difference between tequila and mezcal is that the agave used to make Mezcal is roasted, rather than steamed, resulting in a smoky flavor.
On the palate, the Espadin notes are rather strong, coming across as vegetal and herbal. There is also a strong smoke flavor, but not a peat smoke. It is more like the smoke you would find in a very smoky Mezcal. The mouthfeel is thinner than the others, and the finish is short and smoky. The cask influence is so strong here, it almost feels more like an añejo Mezcal than a Scotch.
The most recent addition to this line is the Portuguese Smooth, which was just released in January 2021. It is finished in Port casks, which is quite possible the most popular choice for “finishing” whisky.
The color is darker than the others, with that slight but distinctive ruddy hue that can be found in most Port finished whiskies. The aroma is very typical of a Port cask finished whisky, as is the palate. Notes of dried fruit and dark berries, with a slight hint of honey sweetness. The smoke is still present, but less here than in any of the others.
Overall, these new releases build upon the base of the basic Dewar’s expression, and really showcase the cask finishes. All are approachable and sippable. While they may lack the full body of an all-malt whisky, at a price point in the low 20s, compared to $50 + for cask finished single malts, they really are a bargain. If you are looking to start exploring cask finished whisky on a budget, you can pick up all four of these bottles and get change from a $100 bill.